Every now and again you come across somewhere so special that you almost daren’t go back, in case it doesn’t live up to the first visit. Restaurants are expected to keep up the standard day after day, even to replicate a dish in exactly the same way as you remember enjoying it three…or was it four? years ago.

It’s a conflict between the evident creativity of the very best chefs, with the mundane operation of producing the same dish each night, without fault. You can see why they change the menu regularly, so you can’t go back and compare, only discover new heights.

Our one night stay at Clos des Sens was so memorable – a rare foray into a tasting menu – that the Découverte menu remains one of the very best meals we’ve eaten. We ate on the terrace, not much in the way of a view, but underneath a horse chestnut tree so beautifully clipped and shaped that it formed a flat canopy over the tables. The less fortunate looked on from the dining area inside. There were four rooms at the time [now 10], and ours seemed to go over three storeys. Elegant and tasteful. Breakfast was also wonderful – perfectly judged and light. They’ve expanded the place a bit now and even have a “Piscine chauffée” – they call themselves an “Hotel Luxe”.

The location is quite odd, the name belying the location. It’s not in Annecy old town by the lake at all, but in a suburban street, almost hidden away. Worth seeking out.

Two Michelin Stars, and deserving of every single one. [2019 update – 3 Michelin Stars]

Restaurant with rooms Clos des Sens