First night in Palermo. We’ve run the gauntlet of the market – by the time we’d arrived on the bus from Catania most of the stalls were packing up and it looked like, well, markets the world mover. We’d soon see a difference the following lunchtime…

We’re staying at a small B&B – just five rooms set behind the inevitable shabby frontage, complete with Acrow props holding up the first floor balcony. Inside, however, calm and smart. We have a room at the back with two bathrooms and a view down into a small garden. Really peaceful. 

So, I Cucci. Set in a small square (Piazza Bologni) just off Via Vittorio Emanuele. It’s raining (what!…Ed) so the plastic covers are down around the outside seating. We’re new here and order too much food – we’ve leant from that. now We had two starters – 25 euros each – and were completely overfaced. Not a good start. And it was raining – did we mention that?  Still, a good start really and it just kept getting better. There were a few ‘Tourist go home’ signs, but were residents by now…

Restaurant I Cucci

 …and they have a ‘little Cucci’ just round the corner serving delicious pastries and drinks on little tables at the side of the (mostly) traffic-free road.

…and we stayed in Il Giardino di Ballarò a very central delightful B&B. Small but perfectly formed. Be even better when they take the Acrow props away from the front – nothing serious, we’re assured…