Before we head off to the sunshine in Vietnam and Cambodia [why?…have you seen the sky in that picture?…ed] we’ve had a couple of walks, terminating in Yorkshire’s remote pubs – see the last Tan Hill entry. The CB – or to give it its correct title, the Charles Bathurst – is in Arkengarthdale. What a wonderful name. The Guardian tribe – out on safari from London – found it just right for a walking adventure.

Arkengarthdale runs northwards from Reeth, in Swaledale, and the road heads north-west across the moor [passing close to Booze – another cracking name] to the A66 east-west highway, via the pub at Tan Hill.

Dr John Bathurst was Oliver Cromwell’s physician, but it is after a descendant, Charles, an important figure in local lead mining, that the 18th-century inn is named. In 1727 his great-grandson Charles Bathurst, who was then aged about 24, decided to run for Parliament hoping to regain the seat his great-grandfather had held. In 1730 he killed his butler.

The pub at Low Row, the Punch Bowl, is in the same ownership and you can walk between the two – about 3 miles [4.8 km] – and enjoy a pint in both.

If you’re feeling energetic it’s a brisk three-mile walk, climbing Bouldershaw Hill, then descending to a ford that some might remember from the opening titles of the TV series All Creatures Great and Small. Reward yourself with a pint of locally brewed Black Sheep ale and a slab of traditional Yorkshire parkin.

Great sandwiches after a brisk walk along the sides of Arkengarthdale. If you haven’t experienced the wilder bits of the Dales, its not going anywhere soon.

Pub The Charles Bathurst, Arkengarthdale, North Yorkshire

…the walkers return

…menu on the mirror

…the beer. Black Sheep

The pub…

Arkengarthdale – Yorkshire Dales Photography