On the scale of hard to find, this is a challenge. Venezia is notoriously hard to navigate at first but, as with most things, practice makes perfect – and we’re willing to practise. An osteria was originally a place serving simple food and wine, often serving cheap food at long shared tables. Well, things have changed and this Osteria serves really excellent food and wine. First discovered on a trip in 2009, we’ve since revisited as a 6 and sent a couple of others there to test the consistency. Good for lunch or dinner; must book.

Although Venezia must be the ultimate tourist trap, with poor-to-average food available almost everywhere, there are some gems – like this osteria. More news later on places to stay and other eating and drinking, especially in Canareggio – the canal side to the north so beloved of residents and largely ignored by visitors. And then there are the islands…

Osteria Santa Marina