Well, it’s not Yorkshire (soon be a new category, alongside England…Ed) but it’s but a short train ride. Durham – beautiful cathedral city (nine arches) and incredibly well respected university. We do get out and about from time to time. Population around 30,000, but nearly double that when you include the students. 

The government’s new train service [LNER – same old, same old] gets us to within a 4 minute downhill walk of Isla – we weren’t sure about the walk back – for a sumptuous lunch with old friends and colleagues. Unlike when we met them in Newcastle, when we were about an hour or so late, we were very nearly on time [16 minutes late on a 28 minute journey ‘car hit bridge’ – yeh, yeh]. 

Durham has lived in the shadow of its prominent neighbour, Newcastle, with not much to write home about on the rests front. All change then. Firstly Coarse and now Isla…

From the people behind Coarse on Reform Place, Isla swaps tasting menus for something more casual but equally delicious.

So a succession of small plates, in the usual random order so beloved of the ‘small plates’ concept, each one shared and very tasty.

Oh the halibut…and the affogato…and the beef..oh and the…[add your own]…and a shout out for the lovely Treize Étoiles wine – Swiss, would you believe?

Coming by train certainly helps the wine go down with the consequent gentle appreciation of the food. We’re more receptive, if you will. We wandered up the road and you can’t help but notice…well, the tat. It’s not a poor city really and there’s a large student population at this very prestigious university. Durham has it all – river, cathedral, mainline train station, university – yet it feels quite down at heel in places, with a large number of empty shops – and those that are filled are mostly fast food outlets. Why?

The sister [smart] restaurant ‘Coarse’ is just up the road – and down a dingy alley past several large bins. Again why? Still, it prospers and if there were ever a day without rain in 2026 we’re sure it will all look simply splendid.

Good Food Guide Best Local Restaurant, no less. And well deserved we think.

Small plates restaurant Isla

The bus station opposite Isla – those hippy ’60s have a lot to answer for…

The Main Street up to the Cathedral. OK it’s wet…but somehow dismal as well? Sorry…

Coarse – the posh twin – and the approach…go on, you can do it

…and Crush. The wine bar with loads of great wines by the glass. Loads and loads…