A bit of a hike to this one. 

For irresistible homemade pasta and the finest seafood. This place truly captures the true essence of Sicilian coastal flavours with the freshest ingredients.

So we trekked quite a long way [not really…Ed] down past the crossroads of Vittorio Emanuele and Via Roma, sampling a little Aperol Spritz on the way, down nearly to where the beach is, past Piazza Sant ‘Euno into a little square. Outside were simple tables for two or four, some with umbrellas but mostly just out on the square. There were tables inside but here, in the warm early evening sun, we sat down ready for a simple supper.

And simple it was – a shared salad of shaved fennel, simply dressed, and grilled fish with braised vegetables – ratatouille the French would call it we suppose – and a couple of generous glasses of local white wine; oh, and some water of course. Very simple and very inexpensive. Very reminiscent of a simple meal in Saint-Rémy about a hundred years ago. Simple food [we had dandelion salad in Saint-Rémy] and simple wine. Ah…

Osteria Alivaru, Palermo