First proper day in Palermo. There are a lot of what we would describe as ‘projects’ here. Derelict, rotting property everywhere. There’s a very smart shop on Via Vittorio Emanuele that is missing its roof; the whole top one or two stories (who knows?) has vanished, leaving rough walling and weeds above the elegant shop front. We spot a small ‘project’ in an agent’s window. It’s really just a pile of rubble described by our architect son as something a ‘good decorator would soon have sorted’. Hmm…

We lunch in the market – some great caponata and, oh yes, a glass of wine. We avoid the local specialty, available at many, many stalls. Pani ca meusa. Barbecued spleen to you and us, in a soft bun. Why would you? Lots do here, apparently. Are we just squeamish Brits…[yes…Ed].

Tonight we’re at Aja Moli. What a find. We’re inside at a small table just opposite the pass. Fabulous (we’ll use that word a lot we expect). Simple local cooking, but the pudding – gosh we have one to share. Gelato al sesamo nero, nocciole e caramello mou al miso. We go again [locals, now] and have one each. Never in the history of humankind have we had one each…fabulous. [Have we mentioned that before…?].

We wander back through the streets of Palermo, alive now with restaurants all over place, filling every street using the backdrop of dereliction and/or restoration, made colourful by the exuberant graffiti.

Restaurant Aja Moli Palermo. Just go.