The population of the Ile de Ré is said to be about 20,000, but rises to about 250,000 in the summer. It’s a fabulous island linked now to the mainland by a spectacular [toll] bridge, built in 1987 to replace the roll-on-roll-off ferries, which must have increased visitor numbers significantly – and property prices similarly.

Flat, covered in shared walking and cycle tracks and it’s the only way to travel. There are electric bikes [useful if there’s a wind] but normal bikes are probably just fine. We, being old and doddery, hired electric bikes of course.

Restaurants, bars and ice cream shops can be found everywhere. We ate last time at George’s [part of Le Touras hotel – very smart, very expensive and alas soulless] so this time we were at Tout Du Cru and Le Sergie again. Le Sergie is an absolute must – accept no substitutes.

For a lunch stop we cycled out to Ars-en-Ré and had moules-frites at Hotel Le Clocher – a massive plateful…

This time we managed to get into Le Bourdin Zinc. They take no reservations but as it was late in the season we were in. Simple sea-based food imaginatively prepared and served. Octopus ceviche, tuna tartare, big juicy ‘shrimps’ and great chips. It’s all very basic and laid back – there’s an old VW Campervan outside under cover – just order something, and then if your hungry, just order something else. No pressure.

Casual restaurant le Bordin Zinc