We’ve never really been to Spain much, apart from Barcelona a couple of times, and Majorca (which doesn’t really count – beautiful though Sóller is). So, this September – before it’s too late – we’ve booked a Brittany Ferry to Bilbao, and then who knows where we’ll go?

So, in preparation, we went to the El Castillo Tapas restaurant as part of the astonishing Auckland Project – really quite astonishing. The story has a few twists that started out as wanting to acquire some important Spanish paintings, has moved towards buying the Bishop’s palace (where the paintings were housed) and starting a comprehensive upgrading of the centre of Bishop Auckland. It’s being lifted from a rather down at heel Durham town (sorry – but true) into a proper destination with over £150 million of Jonathan Ruffer’s own wealth, levering in similar sums from other, mostly private, sources. Really good quality new, award winning, buildings – beautifully detailed and proportioned – blending with the enhanced hard landscape and stunning walled garden. We’re more than impressed – can you tell?

Lots to see – and we’ve got lots to go at. Rapid lunch before a guided tour of the paintings in a quality gallery that would rival anything in that far flung capital of ours. A true act of real philanthropy from Mr Ruffer – not just for art and heritage but for the revitalisation of Bishop Auckland itself.

And the tapas? Great but choose carefully. We ordered far too much very tasty food – and didn’t have room for pudding. About £34 for two. 

Restaurant El Castillo Bishop Auckland

 …and the Auckland Project itself. And there’s a 1,000 cast historical recreation on 8 or 9 consecutive Saturday nights each summer, called Kynren. Not to be missed – seating for about 8,000. Lake, Roman village, you name it.