Just as he was sounding utterly jaded with restaurant reviewing, Giles Coren surprised readers with a visit to ChefsTable, the tiny “show kitchen attached to the factory of” TRUEfoods, Yorkshire purveyor of “high-quality stocks and sauces to the upper echelons of the food trade”, where he ate a “deliriously brilliant multicourse dinner” that he awarded full marks across the board.

“It is open only on Fridays and Saturdays, for dinner, one sitting only. So 20 covers a week. You can wait a year for a space.”

Chef-owner Mitch Mitchell gave Giles a tour of the factory before seating him in the “small, steely cosiness of his kitchen” equipped with “some of the most fantastic, futuristic cooking kit”. It’s “reminiscent of the plating kitchen at Noma or a shrunken version of the El Bulli kitchen in its prime, but the people are nicer and the vibe is cooler”.

The impressive range and skill of the team of chefs and sommelier are evident in Giles’s detailed descriptions of each course. “This was a dazzling and beautifully balanced meal. It was real food, rendered new and exciting by the immense skill and charm of everyone concerned. And so, so relaxed. Entirely unique in that sense.” (30/30). 

We didn’t wait a year, being guests of a regular. Our group of ten had the 14 course tasting menu, with the accompanying 10 glass wine flight. And champagne to start. And a small brandy to finish. The next day we discussed favourite courses. “The canapés” we all agreed. The rest were equally brilliant but a slight 10-glass haze made remembering which was which just a little more tricky. 

Still, absolutely, without question, simply stunning. We don’t always say this (in fact never) but Giles Coren was spot on.

Restaurant? TrueFoods Chef’s Table