The world-famous Black Swan at Oldstead (aka The Best Restaurant In The World) has a new companion. No, not Roots, their York City venue – also holder of a Michelin Star. This time it’s a pub. And a proper (if posh) pub. Posh? Well, we’re in Yorkshire of course and most of us can hold a knife and fork properly. No, you don’t hold your knife like a pen. 

The Abbey Inn is right opposite Byland Abbey, a gorgeous ruined abbey…

It was founded as a Savigniac abbey in January 1135 and was absorbed by the Cistercian order in 1147. It was not an easy start for the community which had had to move five times before settling at New Byland, near Coxwold in 1177. Its early history was marked by disputes with no fewer than four other religious establishments: Furness Abbey, Calder Abbey, Rievaulx Abbey and Newburgh Priory.^[2] However, once it had overcome these setbacks, it was described, in the late 14th century, as “one of the three shining lights of the north”.

It has functioned as a pub (obvs), a refined tea room, and then stood empty until the Oldstead mob appeared, charcoal grill in hand. As soon as you arrive you can smell the open fire cooking, wafting across the car park in the warm evening sun. A very warm welcome at the door and straight the table. Water arrives instantly whilst you start on the menu. Good choices in starters (sorry, small plates), mains and puds, with some tempting nibbles whilst you get sorted. We ordered the bread, complete with rich wild garlic butter – a good big spoonful – not a precise quenelle or rigid roll – to spread (slather) on the bread. 

The charcoal grill features widely – we had the red mullet, seared on the grill – and the halibut. It was fabulous. We were tempted by the signature Dexter burger from the Banks’ farm. Delicious but we’d have had to do the Lyke Wake Walk first to build up the appetite. Mind you, two young couples at the next table had no difficulty. And they were all thin as rakes. 

A completely unnecessary but delicious Douglas Fir, Acorn and white chocolate sundae rounded off the evening, with a piping hot cortardo and chamomile tea to help us on our way home. We indulged in the very good wine-by-the-glass – hence the larger than normal bill. 

There will be 3 rooms in the pub, firstly as overspill for The Black Swan, only a mile away, and then as part of a two-night package – Abbey Inn and Black Swan.

Just to be sure, we venture again for lunch with friends. We don’t usually do this ‘lunch’ thing but… Same perfect balance of quality and informality, very well trained servers and stunning food.

The Banks’ enterprises continue to expand without any loss of quality. Our server had tasted all the dishes and unfailing delivered the right choices to the right person – food and drinks. This is no northern amateur operation using cheap teenage labour. This is, again, absolutely the Real Deal.

Pub with rooms The Abbey Inn